Windswept and Interesting

Typical 17th century mantling.  That's what catches the eye as I rest in a 21st century folly.  

 

Castle Hill rises above Cullen's viaducts, where the cycle path today echoes to the grunts of the fireman and the steam whistle  as the engines of yesterday pulled up the slope towards Porknockie.

 I take some shelter in the circular folly, buffeted by the wind.  That same wind had whipped the surf on my walk round from Bow Fiddle Rock.  Although I had allowed an hour or so for the tide to ebb, it had been a very high tide peaking shortly after lunch.  As I headed for the cliffs I had passed fresh spring budding on the rosa rugosa.  Leaves to unfurl as the days stretch, temperature nudging upwards

After passing Jenny's Well I'd had to resort to a little rock scrambling to reach the golf course with dry feet; dry knees even on that particular day.  It was either that or wait; and wait.

With the surf breaking yet at the top of the beach my walk had to continue through the golf course.  Golfers were hugely outnumbered by lapwings.  

 

With only two pairs on the back nine I was in little danger from a misplaced hook.  My approach to the 11th highlighted the variables this links course offers.  

 

The vast crescent beach marked Out of Bounds, though for a course built on sand few bunkers dotted the fairways.

 Instead we have sandstone stacks; mirroring The Three Kings on the beach.  Some holes have tees and greens on vastly different levels, cliff faces to play up, or down, or round.  A certain level of fitness is required.  For golfers the course is a bit special.  Designed by the legend that was Old Tom Morris, it is one of only 260 True Links courses in the world (amongst 38,000 courses), and shortest of them all.  Scotland plays host to 90 of those True Links.

I wandered past the beach sauna, promenading past Seatown with its coloured roofs, to the harbour.  Up the hill to the Mercat Cross.

 

From there it was a short walk to join the cycle path on the middle of the three viaducts, reminders of the Earl who refused to permit the new trains to run through his policies. 

 

 Fine landmarks they are today.  And a huge asset both to the town itself and as a walking and cycle route along the coast.  We should all be grateful today to that Earl.

The Castle Hill Project began in 2016.  Removal of the whins and the gorse which had spread widely over the remnants of what had once been a royal castle was the first task.  Between the 12th and 14th century earthwork castles were built, Cullen's having been one of ringworks crowning a low knoll.  With the foliage cut back accessible paths were made, which today allow us to reach the folly and its flagpole.  Built into the folly are those weathered carvings, the mantling.  Shield with Boar, Ogilvie Arms, rich in heraldic symbolism.  Crowned lion passant guardant, cross engrailed, demi-lion.  The mind turns to lives lived in days of yore.

I looked down over Seatown, and the harbour; out to Bow Fiddle Rock, and the houses of Portknockie.  I would return over the viaducts, on that cycle path.  Walk home.  And the skylarks would sing as I walked.  Welcoming me.  And a life to be lived in days ahead.